Feathers Flights // Sewing Blog: Three Different Ways to Hem Knits (Which is my Favorite) + GIVEAWAY

9.01.2017

Three Different Ways to Hem Knits (Which is my Favorite) + GIVEAWAY

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Three Different Ways to Hem Knits (Which is my Favorite) + GIVEAWAY
I have been sewing with knits for a long time. I fell in love with knits when I was still in college and realized how forgiving sewing with knits was. I didn't know anything about different kinds of knits and how to work with them. I just used them all and treated them all the same. Some of my projects turned out great, and some did know. I never had a problem hemming with a twin needle when I sewed swimsuit knits, but early on I realized it was really hard to get a nice flat, stretchy hem when I used a twin needle. Over the past ten years I have tried almost everything to get a nice hem with a twin needle. I have read every article and tried every trick. I tried changing bobbin tension, changing needle tension, sewing slowly, stretch thread in the bobbin, different fusible hem tapes, higher sewing machine foot pressure, inserting a strip of jersey fabric in the hem, and using tissue paper in the hem. And I could never make it work. I even took a break from sewing knits this year because I was so frustrated with tunneling and wonky hems! I found a new product HeatnBond Soft Stretch Lite* and my knit hems will never be the same. I was surprised at how well this product worked, and now I want to sew all the knits! (Go to the end for the giveaway!)
Three Different Ways to Hem Knits (Which is my Favorite) + GIVEAWAY
There are lots of different fusible hem tapes on the market. I just wanted to compare HeatnBond's other products because I feel like the Soft Stretch* is so unique. They have three kinds that need to be sewn and two all for wovens. One does not need to be sewn, but it is for wovens. There's only one, the Soft Stretch*, that is lightweight and for knits. I decided to use 5 different knits and test out three different ways of hemming to see which one I liked the best. There's a roundup of pros of cons of each method at the end of the post.
Fabrics Used in This Post: 
lightweight green cotton spandex (similar*)
midweight mint cotton spandex (similar*)
printed midweight cotton spandex - ice cream cone fabricice cream cone fabricneapolitan cce cream cone (I got mine as a remnant from a warehouse, but I found some that at similar.)
lightweight gray bamboo rayon spandex*
midweight periwinkle bamboo rayon spandex*
striped bamboo rayon spandex* (in the first photo)

The three methods I used for hemming the knits were 1) hemming without anything extra, 2) hemming and inserting a strip of fabric in the hem, and 3) hemming with the Soft Stretch*. I'm not going to show you how to hem knits with a twin needle without anything extra. You can find that in other tutorials. I will show you how to hem with fabric and how to hem with Soft Stretch*.

Hemming with Fabric - Out of everything I've tried, this has been the most successful. (My hem thread still pull out though, so I wasn't completely happy with it.)
Three Different Ways to Hem Knits (Which is my Favorite) + GIVEAWAY
1. Cut 1/2" strips of the same fabric you're working with with the stretch going the long way.
2. Lay the strip of fabric along the edge that needs to be hemmed.
3. Fold the fabric up 1/2" enclosing the strip of fabric inside the hem.
4. Pin the hem and press. 
5. Sew with a twin needle and tie of the ends.

Hemming with Soft Stretch
Three Different Ways to Hem Knits (Which is my Favorite) + GIVEAWAY
1. Cut the soft stretch the length you need. (If you have a curved hem then cut the strips in 3" to 4" to go with the curve.)
2. Place the soft stretch on the edge that needs to be hemmed and press for 5 seconds.
3. Let cool and then peel the backing off. The resulting interfacing is so thin you can hardly see it.
4. Fold up the fabric and press for 20 seconds.
5. Sew with a twin needle and tie off the threads.

I took pictures of each hem right after it was hemmed and then after I pressed it. The top row is a hem, the second row is a hem with a fabric facing, and the bottom row is a hem with Soft Stretch. Sewing the hem stretched out the fabric on all three, but it's the most noticeable on the top two. Even after steaming and pressing, the fabric didn't really return to normal except with the Soft Stretch. Also, the top two are wonky seams after being pressed because they were stretched out. This is one of the lighter fabrics I used which is trickier, but it shows what a difference it makes.
Three Different Ways to Hem Knits (Which is my Favorite) + GIVEAWAY
These are my lists of the advantages and disadvantages for each type of hem. I'm trying to be completely honest about each one. I've used them all and lots of other kinds, but Soft Stretch* really is my favorite. I finally feel like I can make flat and crisp hems.
Knit Hem
Pros
Nothing else is needed
Free
Fast
Can control hem depth
Cons
Tunneling
Wonky seams
Needs pinning
Knit Hem - Fabric Facing
Pros
Inexpensive
Sometimes prevents tunneling
Fast
Can control hem depth
Cons
Extra thing to cut out
Sometimes wonky seams
Needs pinning
Hems stretch out
Can make seam bulky
Knit Hem - Soft Stretch
Pros
Prevents tunneling
Prevents stretching out
No pins
Impossible to tell it's there
Crisp hem
Cons
Costs money
Needs pressing before sewing
More time than the other two
Hem depths determined by tape
width

I took a picture of every hem stretched from the front and stretched from the back. You can see that the top two hems of each fabric tunnel when stretched and the bottom hem does not tunnel or only tunnels slightly.
Lightweight bamboo rayon spandex
Three Different Ways to Hem Knits (Which is my Favorite) + GIVEAWAY
Midweight bamboo rayon spandex
Three Different Ways to Hem Knits (Which is my Favorite) + GIVEAWAY
Lightweight cotton spandex
Three Different Ways to Hem Knits (Which is my Favorite) + GIVEAWAY
Midweight cotton spandex
Three Different Ways to Hem Knits (Which is my Favorite) + GIVEAWAY
Printed midweight cotton spandex
Three Different Ways to Hem Knits (Which is my Favorite) + GIVEAWAY
a Rafflecopter giveaway
Three Different Ways to Hem Knits (Which is my Favorite) + GIVEAWAY
Did you learn anything new today? Which hem will you use from now on?
Three Different Ways to Hem Knits (Which is my Favorite) + GIVEAWAY

26 comments:

  1. I use a twin needle with a zigzag stitch set to 0-.5 width. But I'd love to give Soft Stretch a try.

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  2. Totally going to get some of this and try it. I like sewing with knits...until it comes to hemming. Then I hate it! That and I need a new twin needle. I accidentally tried to sew a hem on a shirt with my sewing machine setting still on zig zag with my twin needle still in. It was a very sad moment. :) Thanks for sharing this info. I just bought some gorgeous black plaid on white knit to make a shirt out of.

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  3. I've been super lazy lately and just gone for a zip zag stitch.

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  4. I'm a Soft Stretch convert after Sweet Red Poppy posted about it! Love these comparisons too!

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  5. I have had the best luck with knit stay tape + wooly nylon in the bobbin. Is this similar to knit stay tape?

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  6. I use a Juki coverstitch and that has largely eliminatedy issues.

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  7. It's been a long time since I hemmed any knits.
    I've always used the sewing machine with a
    longer stitch length. the new tapes
    would make hemming so much easier and faster.

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  8. I really hate hemming knits. I upcycle to avoid it whenever I can! I have had the best luck with a wash-away tape to hold it in place temporarily.

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  9. Still learning how to sew knits

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  10. Would love to try this! I use knit stay tape and it usually does the trick. Or I serge and press once and sew on the serged area.

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  11. Thank you so mch for all the detailed information. I've been experimenting withbrwin needle hems a bit lately. Somehow the width between the two needles in relation to the weight of my fabric seems to make a difference. I look forward to trying your technique. Thanks again.

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  12. Great info! I use cover stitch but would love to try tapes!

    lenelson(at)mail(dot)com

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  13. Thanks for doing the detailed comparisons. I'd love to try Soft Stretch. I'm at the beginning of my sewing journey.

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  14. I have been so afraid of having to do a decent hem in knits that I'm afraid to use them. With these awesome tutorials, I will definitely be trying knits out now! Jadahlgr at Yahoo dot Com

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  15. I use my coverstitch and hope for the best.

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  16. I use a twin needle, or upcycle the existing hem if possible.

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  17. This is great! I have to try this. I don't sew all that much these days - but hemming knits is something that is so sloppy when I do it.

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  18. I have never used a twin needle for this, only a narrow zigzag along the folded-up raw edge. Occasionally I might use two single rows of straight stitch on the hem of a full skirt.

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  19. Thank you for the blog post. I've been using a zig zag stitch because I can't quite get my twin needle to work.

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  20. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  21. These are great tips! I usually just fold over & use wonderclips, and then hem with my coverstitch. I should press, but I usually don't! I have tried some hem stabilizer that didn't work well. I'm excited to try the Soft Stretch!

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  22. Now I want to use Soft Stretch because I'm only using a double needle, and I'm about to go on a knit hem strike!!!

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  23. When I was young (20's) I didn't know that knits were any different from wovens in regards to how they are sewn. I made cute outfits for my girls and ended with a ruffly hem. Ripped it out and just didn't hem them. I haven't sewn with knits since then but now that I have grandsons I think it's time to try again!

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  24. Heather, thank you so much for the Tips ref the Soft Stretch...I'm off to find some today.
    My knits are hemmed w/stretch stitch on my machine. Disastrous at times as I'm still learning knit weights, textures and of course the right needle.

    schimmel(dot)db(at)gmail(dot)com

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  25. I need to try this because I'm always frustrated with my hems too!

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