Let's talk about fabric for a little bit. The first ones I made, the lighter pair, are made out of a mystery fabric. I'd say the fabric is either a lightweight denim with no stretch or a heavier chambray fabric. Those pants had to be more fitted and look a little more structured. I added back pockets and distressing. These pants look pretty casual, and the fabric will wear out quicker than the next pair I made.
The darker pair are made out of Tencel which is like a lightweight chambray that is extremely strong and durable because it's made out of Lyocell. That pair is less fitted and has more drape. It has no back pockets and no distressing. These pants look a little dressier because the fabric is nice and the color is dark. I would wear these on a date night because I feel they look nice enough.
I added 1.5" to the pocket and pocket facing so they would be a good size.
Instead of using the pocket details I just cut some rectangles to play with while I was sewing. Basically if you want the pocket details, cut the fabric at least 1" longer than the pattern.
I don't have a picture of the cuffs (don't know how I missed that), but I added at least an 1" to each side of the cuff. You need the cuffs circumference to be the same circumference as the bottom of the pants.
I used woven fabric for the pocket details but it needs to be long enough to go across that seam. I was worried this piece would make the pocket opening too small to use but mine is 1" tall and doesn't hinder my use of the pocket. I also added edgestitching right along the pocket detail. Be REALLY careful to make sure your pocket opening and pocket detail lay flat when you sew it together. Mine bowed out slightly when I did mine, and I had to redo them.
Then I tried them on to see how the fit was. For these pants I straightened out the hip curve because I have pretty straight hips. I mostly need a lot of room for my bum which this pattern gives.
*On my first pair I straightened the hip curve and took in 1" total out of each side seam. This was when I weighed more but the stiffer fabric needed to be fitted to be flattering.
- I found the Tencel to leak color through the first couple of washes. It didn't change the color of the pants, but it did dye a couple of things that washed with it. Wash them separately for awhile or with rags, so you don't ruin anything else.
- If you use lightweight, drapey fabric, then you don't have to make them as tight. If you use a light to medium weight fabric, then you need a more fitted look to make them sit right.
- The fit is pretty forgiving, so it's a great way to start sewing pants.
- You need a little more length added since the pattern calls for stretch fabric. You need room to bend your knees and bend over.
- Sew on either patch pockets or sew the faced pockets to the front of the pants.
- You can add back pockets and distressing if you'd like.
- These are pretty quick pants and only have a minimal amount of topstitching.
- Fitted at the ankle looks best, in my opinion. Or maybe that's what looks best on me. You might have to try it out for your body shape.
- Instead of doing elastic in the cuffs, you could eliminate the cuffs and do cropped pants. There are lots of variations here.
Here is a round up of a bunch of woven Hudson Pants so you can read what others did:
Please ask if you have any more questions, and I'll do my best to answer!