Little Boy Suit Jacket Pattern and Tutorial

I've thought about making Henry a little suit jacket, but didn't want to start because it would take so long with lots of little details. By using an old suit jacket, you get some of the fun details without the time and advanced construction.

It's so fun to dress little boys up even if it's not that practical. Sometimes I indulge myself. I would love to see this in a black suit and black satin bias binding. It would look like a tux! Or if you make your own bias binding, use the same fabric to make matching pants!

Supplies:
Old suit jacket
12 mos little boy suit jacket pattern
thread, pins, scissors
3 yards bias binding either 1/2" or 1/4" (I found 1/2" to be a lot easier.)

1. Lay out front pieces with fold line matching the fold line of the jacket lapel. I found it was best to go as high as possible so that you get the detail of the front chest pocket and get as little amount as dart as possible.

2. Save a front button to use.

3. You will have two fabric fronts and two lining fronts. Separate them and cut out any extra layers to get rid of extra bulk.

4. Fold the sleeve on the under arm sleeve. Lay the pattern out on the other fold. Either line up the bottom with the hem and don't cut anything or have it above the sleeve and cut the hem off. (If you cut the hem off you will add bias binding to the edge. If you don't cut the hem off you will have a regular sleeve hem.) Also, if you want to add elbow patches, add them before sewing the sleeves in.

 

The sleeve fabric and lining will probably be sewn together under the buttons. Don't worry, you will still be able to work with the as if they were separate.

5. Fold the collar in half. Put the pattern on the fold. Line up the the fold line with the fold line of the collar. The fold lines only need to match up at each end. You will have a fabric collar and a felt collar.

You might have enough fabric leftover to make matching suit pants! Maybe even use the side pockets as details!

6. With right sides together sew the shoulder seams together on the fabric and the lining. Iron seams open.

7. Next you're going to sew the collars on. The felt collar (under collar) will go on the fabric and the fabric collar (upper collar) will go on the lining fabric. Match center backs with neck edge toward the jacket. The edge of the collar will line up with the square edge. Sew right sides together. Iron seams open.

8. With right sides together sew all four sleeves into the shoulders. Match the notches withe the shoulder seam.

9. With right sides together sew side seams together from body to sleeve. If you cut the sleeve hems off, you will just end at the sleeve hem. If you didn't cut the sleeve hems off, you will sew from body to sleeve to lining sleeve to lining body. The lining with be folded when you sew it. Iron seam allowances towards the bakc.

10. Optional: Sew the collar seam allowances together. This is a very professional technique, especially if you do it by hand. It will keep the two jackets together nicely.
Put the lining inside the fabric jacket. Sew the felt collar seam allowance to the fabric collar seam allowance and push all the other seam allowances and fabric pieces away.

11. Pin all edges together. Basted edges together at 1/8".

11. Trim any wandering edges so all edges line up nicely.

12. Finish edges with bias binding. Where the collar joins the body you will have three curves. When I folded my binding around and was sewing it down, I sewed with the face of the jacket up from fold line down around the hem to the other fold line. Then I sewed the binding down with the face of the collar up from fold line up the collar to the other fold line.

13. If you cut the sleeve hems, finish them with bias binding.
14. Add button and buttonhole right under the lapel fold.

Try it on your little man and take him somewhere nice!