Feather's Flights: A Sewing Blog

7.01.2016

How to Make Denim Joggers Using the Hudson Pants Pattern

I got such a great response on my first denim jogger hudson pants that I decided to make another pair and make a mini tutorial so you all can make some too if you'd like. I love my new pair, and I still love my old pair. I will wear both of them until they are threads. I know this style of pants isn't for everyone; a lot of people dislike it, but this just feels like me. This post is going to be full of LOTS of information and pictures so good luck getting through it all!
Let's talk about fabric for a little bit. The first ones I made, the lighter pair, are made out of a mystery fabric. I'd say the fabric is either a lightweight denim with no stretch or a heavier chambray fabric. Those pants had to be more fitted and look a little more structured. I added back pockets and distressing. These pants look pretty casual, and the fabric will wear out quicker than the next pair I made. 
The darker pair are made out of Tencel which is like a lightweight chambray that is extremely strong and durable because it's made out of Lyocell. That pair is less fitted and has more drape. It has no back pockets and no distressing. These pants look a little dressier because the fabric is nice and the color is dark. I would wear these on a date night because I feel they look nice enough.
SUPPLIES
Sewing supplies
Cord, string, rope, etc for the waistband drawstring (I used white cording for one pair, and the other pair I used the pants fabric sewn into a thin band.)
2" elastic for the waistband
2"-3" elastic for the cuffs
2 yards or more of fabric - here are three Tencel fabrics and links. I only picked blue Tencel fabrics, there are lots of other colors and options all three sites I linked too.

Telio Cross Hatch Tencel Denim BlueCross Hatch Tencel Denim - Blue5 oz Dark Blue Cotton Tencel


BASIC INSTRUCTIONS
Wash and dry your fabric first to eliminate any shrinking. Also, Tencel seems to release lots of color in the wash so be very careful what you wash it with.
I am right in between a size 2 and 4 in the Hudson Pants pattern. I usually make a size 2 when I'm sewing with knit. When I first cut out this pattern for wovens I was immediate post-partem and more like a size 4. So I printed out a size 8 for a woven pair: two sizes larger. I added .5" in width to both the front and back inseam. I lengthened the legs 5" (I think) because I'm 5'10". I also noticed with my first pair that without stretch the center back gets pulled down when I bend over so I added 3/4" to the center back. I am much taller than the pattern calls for though so it might not be an issue for someone else.
I cut out the waistband without any alterations.
I added 1.5" to the pocket and pocket facing so they would be a good size.
Instead of using the pocket details I just cut some rectangles to play with while I was sewing. Basically if you want the pocket details, cut the fabric at least 1" longer than the pattern.
I don't have a picture of the cuffs (don't know how I missed that), but I added at least an 1" to each side of the cuff. You need the cuffs circumference to be the same circumference as the bottom of the pants.
I made the pants with the same construction as the pattern instructs, so I won't tell you how to put the pants together.
I used woven fabric for the pocket details but it needs to be long enough to go across that seam. I was worried this piece would make the pocket opening too small to use but mine is 1" tall and doesn't hinder my use of the pocket. I also added edgestitching right along the pocket detail. Be REALLY careful to make sure your pocket opening and pocket detail lay flat when you sew it together. Mine bowed out slightly when I did mine, and I had to redo them.
Sew the pockets to the pants. I added topstitching along the edge of the pocket detail (do this before you baste the pieces together) and I sewed the pockets right to the pants. I like the subtle stitching details.
Then I sewed the front pieces together and added some stitching details like a faux zipper fly. I sewed the back pieces together and added edgestitching on the center back seam. I sewed the front and back together and added edgstitching to the inseam.
Then I tried them on to see how the fit was. For these pants I straightened out the hip curve because I have pretty straight hips. I mostly need a lot of room for my bum which this pattern gives.
*On my first pair I straightened the hip curve and took in 1" total out of each side seam. This was when I weighed more but the stiffer fabric needed to be fitted to be flattering.
Then I added the waistband, elastic, and drawstring. I constructed it just like the pattern instructs. (These are phone pictures because I was sewing when the kids were awake and didn't trust my camera and tripod to be safe while my 2 yr old was loose.) I tried them on again to check the length and fit again. I decided to take 1.5" off of the bottom before I put on the cuffs. I wanted some pooling right above the cuffs so I would have room for bending my knees, but not too much. So I didn't need 5" like I originally planned, but I'd rather have too much then too little.
I sized the cuffs slightly differently than the pattern. I used 2" elastic so my cuffs were 5" tall (2 + 2 + seam allowance) and my cuffs circumference were the circumference of the pants ankles. I sewed the cuffs on leaving a 3" gap and inserted my elastic. I sized my elastic to be slightly bigger than my ankles. I made them slightly smaller than my ankles on my first pair and it was a little too tight. I did not add any topstitching to my cuffs because I thought it would be too hard to sew with my machine.
Tips to remember:

  • I found the Tencel to leak color through the first couple of washes. It didn't change the color of the pants, but it did dye a couple of things that washed with it. Wash them separately for awhile or with rags, so you don't ruin anything else.
  • If you use lightweight, drapey fabric, then you don't have to make them as tight. If you use a light to medium weight fabric, then you need a more fitted look to make them sit right.
  • The fit is pretty forgiving, so it's a great way to start sewing pants.
  • You need a little more length added since the pattern calls for stretch fabric. You need room to bend your knees and bend over.
  • Sew on either patch pockets or sew the faced pockets to the front of the pants.
  • You can add back pockets and distressing if you'd like.
  • These are pretty quick pants and only have a minimal amount of topstitching.
  • Fitted at the ankle looks best, in my opinion. Or maybe that's what looks best on me. You might have to try it out for your body shape.
  • Instead of doing elastic in the cuffs, you could eliminate the cuffs and do cropped pants. There are lots of variations here.
Here is a round up of a bunch of woven Hudson Pants so you can read what others did:

Please ask if you have any more questions, and I'll do my best to answer!
Heather

6.29.2016

Camping with a Baby from a Non-Camper

Last week I took my 4 mos old baby girl camping. I work with the teenage girls in my congregation, and they had their summer camp, along with some neighboring congregations, last week. Not only is the girls camp lots of fun, its the best place to develop a friendship with the girls. I really wanted to go but knew that would mean I would have to bring my baby with me. I read LOADS of articles about camping with a baby to prepare myself. 
I put a giant list together in no particular order of everything that I found helpful and used. Everything I'm sharing in this article is for young babies (6 mos and younger) who are only nursing, hot temperatures (80-90 degrees F) during the day and somewhat cold (50 degrees F) at night. I had no power during the day, but I was ten minutes from civilization (A/C and stores) and had constant access to my car. One afternoon we both needed a break so we went for a drive so she could nap in a cool car. Most of these are amazon affiliate links, meaning I get paid a small amount if you purchase them, because I found it the easiest to find most things there.

1. Bassinet or side sleeper for sleeping in the tent at night - You want your baby close with easy access for quick nursing at night. I would have hated standing up to reach into a pack and play in the middle of the night.
2. Cotton footie pajamas and a Fleece Sleeper - When I first put her to bed it was still hot until about 9pm so I would put her in light cotton pajamas. Then when she would wake around 10pm to eat I would put a fleece sleeper on her to keep her warm in the night. I also wished I had a warm hat to put on her head in the middle of the night when it was the coldest. (My baby was done being swaddled by the time we camped so I didn't bring any swaddles.)


3. All-terrain stroller - I used a stroller similar to this for my baby and it was awesome. I loved that she could nap in it while I walked around. I loved that I could keep my water bottle, sunscreen, bug repellant, sunglasses and a blanket near me all the time. This stroller worked great on gravel roads and grass.
4. Bamboo clothing or cotton bodysuits - This might seem like a frivolous expenditure, but I found wearing bamboo rayon was a life-saving. I wore some bamboo shirts and had two bamboo outfits for my baby. It kept her cool but covered and protected from the sun.
5. Lots of gauze blankets for covering her, the stroller, and as a nursing cover. It will get pooped on and spit up on so have extras.
6. Baby-friendly bug spray - I tried this one that I linked to which kept my baby bug free but I got bit so there might be a better option out there. Just make sure you're using something that won't hurt your baby.
7. Chemical-free baby sunscreen - I know all sunscreens say don't use on babies under 6 mos old, but babies can get sunburned in the shade. My pediatrician said that's to protect babies. If people thought they could sunscreen their babies, then they would stick them right in the sun. I used sunscreen on my baby a couple of times a day and kept her in the shade as much as possible. 
8. A battery powered clip-on fan - I would clip this on my baby's stroller, cover it all with a blanket, and knew that she would stay cool while she napped. If she fell asleep in my arms I would hold it and point it right at her. It was a great little white noise machine too. Really quiet white noise, but my baby only needs a little bit.
9. A waterbottle and mister - You need to keep drinking lots of water so you don't get dehydrated. My friend had a waterbottle with a mister and she would mist me and my baby every once in awhile. It was fantastic and cooling.
10. Play Yard - keep your baby clean and safe if you have to put her down.
11. A sheet to cover the play yard for shade. I put the play yard in the shade and put on the sheet to give extra sun protection.

12. A sunhat
DIY baby sunhat
13. Lots of diapers and WIPES
14. Something to bathe your baby in and a towel

If I had camped with my family and had less hands to hold her and had to be more involved with cooking/cleaning/activities, I would have also brought this.
1. A swing or bouncer for her to happily sit in
Heather
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